Home - The Weekend - April 24-26th

Time to get the engine and transmission prepped. To rebuild an engine properly, it starts with the crankshaft on up. All the parts must sparkle. Tolerances within factory spec or better. Oilway passageways clean. Bad parts replaced with good parts. Good parts replaced where they came from. Bolts torqued, gaskets gooked, exterior metal painted, oil inside, dirt outside. You get the idea.

I started by opening up the transmission. Being a manual version, they hardly give trouble. With such low hours and usually full of "grease" - heavy oil, I had not plans to take it apart. Just clean out the goo if any, seal it back up, new lube and a fresh paint. Plus the shaft seals appear to be just fine. No oil leaks.

I set up shop to wire brush all the loose parts for the engine. Also, in the darkroom sinks, I spent four hours and a half gallon of stripper and the rest of the afternoon? A little loopy, let me tell you. Too bad I am off the sauce. I would have really been flying had I took to the drink.

After all was cleaned up, time to prime any steel, and then paint the Blue. I am going to try to leave all the brass and such nice and shiny by a couple layers of lacquer. The block will be blue, the starter black, the alternator and fuel lift probably natural alueminium.

Here we go ...

 

Instruments of torture for the Tranny. I will spray the stuff inside and let it drain out. Repeat the process 3-4x.

 

Transmission front and back (and underneath). Like the engine, this is way overbuilt. The power comes off the engine flywheel through the splined coupling below, across the top shaft, and then thru gears to the bottom shaft and out the rear at the bottom. There has to be a solid bearing in the front as it absorbs all the forward thrust of the engine when underway.

This little pan, helps stuff from falling straight into the works.

 

Cover off, top shaft from the engine visible.

 

Very simple and very strong. The upper shaft brings the power in, the shaft crossways and underneath helps it shift from forward thru neutral to reverse. Neutral shown.

 

Like the upper shaft, the lower shaft goes the length of the transmission. The shifter has a yoke that rides in a collar on that shaft and slide forward and back on the shaft. The area indicated is a clutch. When compressed, the power would go from the shaft, thru the clutch and out the back.

 

Here is the most complex illustration I could think up.

The top shaft has two gears that rotate constantly with the shaft. Indicated by "R" and "F". For our friends from Lome Linda, that's Forward and Reverse. Those gears, mesh with gears on the bottom shaft, each having a basket with a clutch inside. In Neutral, the yoke from the shifter, is centered, and each gear/basket simply spins on the bottom shaft.

When shifted, the yoke compresses the clutch and power is transferred to the shaft and out the back.

Reverse is achieved by a second gear indicated by the small green box between the upper and lower shaft. This causes the direction of the lower gear/basket to be reversed.

Properly lubricated, properly shifted at low speed, I do not know how one could ruin this gearbox. It is built very well.

 

 

These are deceiving, but, some very powerful Instruments of Torture.

 

Parts we will not strip.

 

The Rack. Here we will spray the stripper liberally.

 

Nice to have sinks like this to clean things up.

 

A few all cleaned up.

 

More, all set.

 

Found some more stuff in the garage.

 

The goo sure works fast.

 

All done.

 

Cleaned up.

 

When I work on an engine, I like to lay out the parts in a neat clean place.

 

Guess what? More IoT.

 

Ready for primer.

 

 

Primed.

 

As Marcia is in Hagerstown, I like pasghetti. I make as much as I can in one session, throw the stuff into ZipLocs, and eat for a week or so.

A bit of more priming on the bottoms of pieces, then the blue paint comes out. Once I get some gasket sealer, I will start by cleaning the block and get the crankshaft into place.

 

Later ...